HOW TO APPLY DECALS: All decals are the water-transfer type (same as model kits). It seems the customers of the 21st century never built models and we have been deluged with questions, complaints and numerous coronary events concerning "how do I stick my decal on my helmet?". What is a water transfer decal? The emblem is attached to a paper backing which is coated with a water activated glue. The principle is thus: When soaked in water, the glue is activated (becomes sticky again) and the decal can be removed. Some glue remains on the back of the decal which permits it to stick to a surface. Now that that is out of the way.... Instructions: 1. Immerse the decal in water. 2. When the decal is just moveable on the paper, remove from the water. This will take a minute or two. There is no exact time. It depends on the water temperature, the decal, and probably the time of the month. Just check it every 20-30 seconds to see whether it is ready. 3. Gently rub the decal around on the paper backing to pick up as much of the glue as possible. This can be tricky with the LW eagles as the wings are fragile. How do you tell that the glue has been picked up? Once the glue has been picked up, the decal will slide easily across the paper. 4. Apply decal to desired location on the helmet. 5. Using your thumb or index finger covered with a damp cloth, gently work the air bubbles out from under the decal by pushing them from the center toward the sides. 6. Allow to dry 24 hours. For a more durable fix: After step 5, attack the sucker with a hair dryer. Put it very close (1/2 inch or so) from the decal. After a minute or so, blisters will appear as the water trapped underneath boils up. Take the damp cloth and work them out as before. Repeat 2-3 times. Eventually it will no longer blister. This removes all the water and allows a better grip for the decal. Problems: There are two main problems encountered when applying decals. 1. Decal is left in the water too long. If you leave it in so long that it floats away from the paper on its own, it will have little or no glue on the back, making it difficult for the decal to stick. 2. Paint. Some paint simply does not like decals. We have tested them on the 2-3 different paints we use on our helmets and all held the decals. However, model paints tend all to be good (for reasons that should be obvious). Conversely, we do know that the camouflage paint from Wal-mart and most primers do not like decals. Decal Placement: All decals were to be placed 5mm under the vent holes on a standard steel helmet (same distance under the front spanner bolts on a Fallshirmjäger shell). * For WSS, the runes goes on the right side, and the shield on the left.