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Waffen SS "44 Dot" Uniform
In early 1944, the Waffen-SS SS introduced a new uniform, meant to replace the pullover camouflage smocks as well as extend the service life of the wool uniform. It consisted of a tunic and trouser, very similar in pattern to the M43 wool uniform. The camouflage pattern was dubbed "Erbsenmuster" (Peas pattern) and was meant to be used in all seasons, dispensing with the need for the reversible uniforms. (Collectors most commonly refer to this as "44 Dot" so that's the term we chose.)
The new uniform was produced on both herringbone twill and cotton twill fabric. Numerous shade variations exist, though this was a factor of erratic printing quality rather than any intentional alterations to the pattern.
Uniforms produced: The only garments produced and issued on a large scale were the 4 pocket tuncis, "Panzer wraps", "Keilhosen" and Panzer pattern trousers. In many original photos, one can see camouflage tunics with pleated pockets, bottle-green collars and even a few short, "M44" style jackets. However, these are either modified 44 dot tunics or tailor-made from zeltbahn cloth. There were also a few uniforms made from Oak A camo HBT cloth (Fall side out) in the same styles as the 44 dot uniforms. Small quantities of paratrooper smocks and padded winter uniforms were also made, but actual issue and use was very limited if any. Those garments were not made on HBT cloth so we do not offer them.Wear: The 44 Dot uniforms were issued to all Waffen SS units and were worn concurrently or in conjunction with the earlier smocks and helmet covers. They were worn both on their own, or over the wool uniform.
Dot myths and sundry nonsense...
There are several misconceptions and flat out falasies commonly encountered regrading these uniforms. Here are the most prevalent.
Jackboots: In recent years, the idea has developed that this uniform was only permitted to be worn with low boots and Gamaschen. That's ridiculous and easily dispelled- numerous original photos exist of soldiers wearing jackboots with this uniform. More re-enactor-I -was-there-in-my-former-life-hooie.
Helmet Covers & Caps: Despite the apparent logic, neither helmet covers nor field caps were made in this pattern during the War. It's quite possible that it was intended to use up the remaining stocks of reversible poplin fabric for this purpose. Particularly revolting are the plethora of "drawstring" helmet covers sold over the years. I've been playing with SS camo for nearly 30 years and I've never, ever seen an original cap or cover in a photo or in person. As for us making such abominations? Just to match? As we caved in and did it for the US camo...? Hell no. Don't even ask.
Dot sizes: Much ado has been made over the years about "the size of the dots" on the dot. There are several. I have 3 original uniforms, have fondled dozens more and have 10 pounds of original cutting scraps from numerous runs. The dots (or spots) seem to vary a bit from one printer to another. Just like the colors, there are numerous minor variations.
Number of Colors: There are 5. Two browns and 3 greens. No ifs, ands, or buts. The olive green is often rather faint and can be hard to see on some printings.
What kind of dot stuff? The only items we will make are those that were made from 44 dot on HBT that actually existed in WWII. 4 Pocket Tunics, Keilhosen, Panzer Wraps, and Panzer trousers. We have no plans to make the Polizei model tunics. Likewise, cheesy atrocities such as helmet covers, field caps, boonie hats, Panzermaus t-shirts, cargo pants, Action-doll outfits, camo Gamaschen or breadbags, and Volksturm capes will never be made by us. Consult the farb vendors for fecal matter of that sort.Our Reproduction 44 Dot
This is arguably the best reproduction of the 44 dot uniform made to date. We have spent over three years and thousands of dollars on original uniform samples, fabric samples and test printings. We changed fabric 3 times and the dye twice. Compounding those issues, I was too cautious to send my original uniform to the manufacturer as they are exceedingly valuable now. However, I did acquire 10 pounds of original scraps from a WWII clothing factory (not sure if it was in a KZ or not) so they were working with original cloth all along. We did not copy a reproduction.Materials & Colors: Our cloth is a 55% linen/ 45% cotton blend and has the sheen and coarse feel of the originals. Except for SM & Janke, all other reproductions I have ever handled were cotton or poly-cotton. Our colors were copied from original, unused cloth and are correct. All 10 of them. What??? We did two shades. The two shades of camouflage will be randomly co-mingled during production. Some uniforms will have main parts made from both shades, while others will mostly match. The backside is oatmeal in color. (Originals can be white, oatmeal or mustard.)
Historical Realities: When we made our SS smocks a few years ago, many "historians who re-live history selectively" couldn't handle the truth- the fact that most actual, original SS camo uniforms, are not made from matching components. Why are WWII German uniforms made from differing shades?
The Germans were very, very thrifty. Nothing was wasted. Scraps of all sorts (not just cloth) were to be retained and used or recycled to the utmost. I have read the Chronicles from the Lodz (Litzmannstadt) Ghetto- it's awful. (This ghetto was basically blocks and blocks of shops making all manner of items for the Wehrmacht and SS.) Taking home even wood chips or sawdust to fuel your stove was a capital offense. One entry records the execution of a cobbler for taking home a scrap of leather just big enough to repair a hole in his own shoe. This was the policy in a ghetto. Imagine what went on in an actual concentration camp like Buchenwald or Ravensbruck where these uniforms were made. These were not made by happy German tailors whistling "Horst Wessel" while they sewed. This is not fantasy or conjecture. Just sad facts.Need all-matching components? If real history is too much to bear, then you'll have to get a uniform from Hong Kong Willy...or, if you feel lucky, the one we pull out of the box might match. But we do not have them sorted as such and we do not offer "matching" SS camo. What we make is as close to the original as you can get and that's that.
Washing Instructions for 44 dot uniforms: Hand wash and hang dry only! I have experimented with these are this is by far the best option. There was no fading and the cloth softened up nicely. Linen does not like machines. They will survive washer/ dryer action, but the uniforms will get highlights and eventually the linen will begin to fuzz-up. So, DO NOT use washers or dryers on these.
This uniform has been washed 5 times in hot water, followed by a hot dry- just as we have recommended you NOT do. Important! It was turned inside out to minimize highlighting where it rubs against the machine. As you can see, it doesn't turn white nor does the camo fall off like some other reproductions. It does highlight a bit on the edges and shrinkage was 2 inches in the body and sleeve length. This is why they run a bit long- I added the material to compensate. Ultimately, machine wash or hand wash, they will shrink 2 inches. Hand washing will still shrink them and wrinkle and soften them up, but the fading will be next to nothing.
We still recommend hand wash and hang dry and washed uniforms are NOT returnable. This is just to prove they don't fall apart or turn purple.
Washed uniforms will not be accepted for return or exchange!
44 Dot Camouflage Uniform: (Jacket & Trouser)
$295.00
Correct SS Pattern.
Insignia NOT included
Linen/ Cotton
HBT
Rear darts and
split vent.
Rectangular pockets,
2 belt hook holes
per station
Mustard colored
buttons reproduced
Sleeve eagle
can be added
Correct SS pattern
belt hook ramps
Pretty close...44 Dot Tunic
4 pocket, M43 pattern blouse issued to Waffen-SS troops from mid-1944 through the end of the War. These were intended to replace the pullover smocks, but never completely did so. As stated above, our reproduction tunics were patterned from original, SS made uniforms. These are cut correctly both with regard to details and sizing. This uniform was worn in every conceivable way- alone, over a wool tunic and even under smocks.
Uniform Pattern: Most other reproductions (both low and high end) use the standard M43 Reed-green HBT tunic pattern. SS tunics did not use the same pattern. For those customers who sweat the details, these are not insignificant. A wider collar, rectangular breast pockets (no slant), belt hook hangars formed in loops, no chest darts and shorter hip pockets distinguish the SS pattern from its Heer counterpart. We did not overlook these changes.
Insignia: Our uniforms come without insignia- originals were issued with just a sleeve eagle. Other insignia and "bling", was not officially authorized (by the Waffen SS) for wear on these tunics. However, some soldiers did add shoulderboards and awards. Collar tabs are see only rarely. For all the SS insignia we have available, click here. Our rates for sewing insignia can be found on the insignia sewing page.
Shoulderboard Loops: Original tunics did NOT have loops for shoulderboards when they left the factory because the tunic was meant to be worn without them. We can add loops and buttons for $10.00
Price: $150
Set: Jacket and Trousers $295.00
44 Dot Tunic Availability
The sleeves in our long sizes are approx. 37". If you don't wear 37" sleeves, then you don't need a long.
Cuff detail
Keilhosen Pattern
Front detail
Rear with
reinforced seat44 Dot Trouser
Similar cut to the M43 Wool "Keilhosen" trousers. Button fly, tapered ankles w/ stirrups, belt loops, suspender provisions, reinforced seat and watch pocket. The waist can be adjusted by means of two small straps with buckles on the hips- much like modern BDU trousers.
Price $150
Failure Note: The white & gray tape used for the stirrup ties is original. I bought rolls of if from Janke in 1999. I sent it over to be used on these since original is cool. However, it's old and not the sturdiest stuff even when new. Several ties have torn off peoples' britches already. If yours does and this bothers you, we can replace the tape with some new, plain white stuff that'll last. Personally, I hate the stirrups and cut them off. Yes, I do nazi-historylivin'...in case you didn't know.
44 Dot Trouser Availability
44 Dot Panzer Uniform
Camouflage jacket and trousers made for tank and armored vehicle crews. These are made from the same fabric as the regular camo tunic but the design of the uniform is similar to the wool one issued to tank crews.
44 Dot Panzer Uniform Set: (Jacket & Trouser)
$295.00
44 Dot Panzer Jacket
Waist length, double-breasted wrap around jacket. The buttons are hidden and there are no external pockets to help prevent snagging on components inside vehicles- when a hasty exit is required, snags are bad. Our jacket is patterned from an original, down to the idiosyncrasis of these tunics- flat black buttons, original grey HBT draw cord, and bartack buttonholes.
Issue: Although intended for AFV crews, it is not uncommon to see these being worn by Panzergrenadiers as well. The how and why is unknown- but original photos don't lie.
Insignia: Like the 44 dot tunic, these were designed to be worn with only the sleeve eagle. Our uniforms come without insignia. Other insignia and "bling", was not officially authorized (by the Waffen SS) for wear on these tunics. However, some soldiers did add shoulderboards and awards. Collar tabs are see only rarely. For all the SS insignia we have available, click here. Our rates for sewing insignia can be found on the insignia sewing page.
However, shoulderboards were sometimes added. To add loops and buttons for shoulderboards add $10.00
Price $150
44 Dot Panzer Jacket Availability
44 Dot Panzer Trousers
Again, patterned from an original pair of trousers. These feature hip pockets with button down flaps, tapered ankles, and built-in waist belt with the correct 3-prong buckle. These also lack suspender buttons. This is as was the original- it's not difficult to add your own if you wish.
Price $150
44 Dot Panzer Trouser Availability
Original 44 Dot
These are some pics of one of the sets I used to pattern our uniforms. Original dot exhibits many variations in hardware and construction- namely due to the apparent lack of specialty machines in the factories. Labor at Buchenwald and Ravensbruck wasn't exactly expensive, so why not hand sew the buttonholes? Poor quality is another halmark of real dot. Crooked pockets, skipped stitches, loose buttonholes and crappy workmanship in general are the norm. Markings are also rather haphazard and seemingly random- if they are present at all.
Collar shape is different than reed-green tunics, and there are
no chest darts.
Belt hook holes. The buttonholes on this particular tunic are keyhole, however instead of a bartack to close them they simply tacked them with a regular lock (straight) stitch machine. Cheap bastards.
44 dot tunic lining. This tunic has khaki cotton lining- but gray, field gray, and mustard-yellow cotton, as well as gray HBT acetate were also used.
These dot trousers use bartack buttonholes like a shirt. Keyhole s were also used on some trousers. The little white tabs at the waist are to hold up long-johns. We tried to do these, but couldn't get the snaps to work. Sorry. Freeball.
Buttons show light corrosion. Curiously, the outside ones are painted black while the ones inside are gray zinc. The 2-prong buckles at the waist are painted mustard color. Black ones as well as the blued slider type were also used.
My dot trousers use buttonholes at
the ankle. Most use an eyelet which
is what I chose for our repros. Lining at the
cuff can be white, tan, gray, or about any other
color in the SS rainbow...
The Original Dot Rant
About my "supposedly" original uniform. Yes, it's original. Despite the doubts of some stitch nazis who are not worthy of the title. If you're going to be anal, you need to know what you're talking about. As for those claiming and hoping that this dot really comes from Sturm, Panther or HK Willy and it'll soon be available for $49 (in other words, I'm lying about us developing it), keep dreaming. Like the Fallschirmjager boot conspiracy theorists, sorry to rain on your gay day parade (again), but I'm the one with the comparison photos.
Back to the original in the photos, I own one of the mintest sets of 44 dot around. That uniform isn't degraded. It's unissued, unworn and still crispy. Were it a fake, Mike Beaver wouldn't have sent me that 2 page nasty gram because I wouldn't loan it (along with my SS-VT zelt) to him to use for his book. (He refused to tell me when I'd get it back and I didn't know him well enough to trust an answer like that.)
And yes, one can detect subtle difference in the comparisons- namely because the original is a size 94 chest while our repro tunic in the pic is a size 100. That's why it's longer- plus I allowed a bit to compensate for shrinkage.
For you window lickers who keep insisting my pattern is somehow wrong, thanks for your detailed critiques comparing our uniforms to those from Antz, Pirschen, Sturm, HK Harry, and all those other high quality copies. As stated before, I used real WWII uniforms, NOT cocked-up repros for these patterns. I spent hours with the pattern, the original uniform, and a tape measure. For example, originals have Batman size collars and breast pockets that are nearly square-14cm x 16cm- to be exact. I don't know why, they just do. I currently own 3 original dot tunics and all are like this. For the larger sizes we did grade the pockets a bit larger so they didn't look like nipples.As for colors- the light brown (tan) color on our new camo is a bit darker than that on the original tunic in the photo. Why? Because we did not send them that tunic to copy- we used original fabric cuttings and I could not find one that was a 100% perfect shade match to my uniform. So our colors match the cutting, not the uniform. Very close to the tunic, but not perfect. As I expected, this has set the forums afire with hen pecking stupidity. Dot comes in a wide range of shades and our colors are totally within the bounds. And please know that words cannot possibly express my intense pain and burning remorse that our colors don't match those on Franz the gay action doll's 44 dot parka. I feel terrible about that...
Lastly, neither the original fabric or ours is 100% linen. They are both roughly 50% linen. However, ours uses cotton for the other 50% while the original used a blend of cellulose fiber, cotton, and other recycled "fillers". Those odd materials were not possible to recreate. (Yes, they did analyze a piece of the real cloth.) This makes the original fabric coarser and it has alot more weaving flaws and tufts of fiber making it rougher in appearance. The printing is also poorer quality on the original so sometimes the base fabric shows through giving real dot a scarled look. Our uniforms do look better after a couple of hand washings- they soften a bit and develop that "spitball" look of original drillich fabric.
So, my reply to the numbnuts who think I'm comparing our stuff to God-knows-what repro, here's my answer. You're blithering idiots. Go back to the where the action is and stick to playing with your damned dragon dolls.
430 Rose Ln.
Columbia, KY 42728PHONE: (270) 384-1965
TOLL FREE: (866) 213-3946
FAX: (270) 384-1443Copyright At the Front/CNS, 2002